Spaghetti all’Assassina (The "Burnt" Pasta)

 

Ah, Spaghetti all’Assassina—the legendary "Assassin's Pasta" from Bari. It’s a polarizing, rebellious dish because it breaks every rule of traditional Italian cooking.

Unlike standard pasta, you don't boil the noodles in water. Instead, you cook them directly in a pan like a risotto, allowing them to char, caramelize, and absorb a spicy, concentrated tomato broth. The result is a texture that is crunchy, chewy, and intensely savory.

Here is how you master this fiery classic.

The Ingredients

Pasta: 320g–400g Spaghetti (use a high-quality, bronze-die pasta so it releases starch).

The Sauce: 150g Tomato purée (passata) diluted in 1L of water, salted lightly.

The "Soffritto": * 3-4 cloves of Garlic (sliced or smashed).

Fresh or dried Red Chili Flakes (be generous—it should "kill" with heat).

1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (you need more than usual to "fry" the pasta).

2 tbsp Tomato paste (concentrato).

🔥 The Method (The "Risottata" Technique)

Prepare the Broth: In a saucepan, simmer the water and tomato purée. Keep this "tomato water" hot throughout the process.

The Sizzle: In a large, wide iron or non-stick skillet (it must be big enough for the spaghetti to lie flat), heat the olive oil. Add the garlic and chili. Once the garlic is golden, stir in the tomato paste.

The Toast: Place the dry spaghetti directly into the oil/paste mixture. Let it sizzle and "toast" for a minute.

The First Char: Ladle in just enough tomato broth to cover the bottom of the pan. Do not stir. Let the liquid evaporate. You will hear a frying sound. Let the pasta stick to the pan slightly until it develops a deep red, almost burnt crust.

Flip and Repeat: Carefully flip the pasta (it will be stiff at first) to char the other side. Add another ladle of broth.

The Finish: Continue adding broth ladle by ladle, only when the previous liquid is gone. Keep pushing the pasta down to ensure it touches the hot surface and "fries."

The Result: The pasta is done when it is al dente but has blackened, crunchy bits throughout. It should be dry, oily, and intensely red—no runny sauce allowed.

💡 Pro-Tips for Success

The Pan Matters: A carbon steel or cast iron skillet is best because it holds the heat necessary to create that signature "burnt" crust without sticking too much.

Don't Be Afraid of the Burn: It’s called "Assassina" for a reason. You want those dark, caramelized patches—they provide the smoky flavor that defines the dish.

The Sound: Listen to the pan. When the bubbling stops and the "frying" crackle starts, that's when the magic (and the char) happens.